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Tastes & Budget Prices¡¨
Less money for more quality is a great way to
enjoy wine. Finding inexpensive wines that perform well above their
price levels entails a little research and knowledge and a great
deal of tasting. It is still my experience that for every good
inexpensive bottle of wine I taste in taiwan, there are at least a
dozen disappointments. Two wines I recently tasted that did not
disappoint were the Columbia Crest, Columbia Valley Grand Estates
Chardonnay, 2001 and Chateau Puy Arnaud, 2001. In their price
categories, they are two of the finest wines available in Taiwan.
For my upcoming ISACS Guide ¡§250 Great Wines Available in
Taiwan¡¨ to be published later this year, I have already tasted
over 1,200 wines. In tastings for the budget category, over 80% of
the wines have been disappointing with most new world candidates
exhibiting over ripe, cheap tasting fruit flavors and little
balance. The budget old world candidates have often been diluted and
harsh in character. The two aforementioned wines are notable
exceptions. They deliver very good drinking experinces at budget
prices.
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Columbia
Crest, Columbia Valley Grand Estates Chardonnay, 2001
(Retail $)
The
first time I experienced the bouquet of this wine I knew it was a
winner. The ripe Chardonnay fruit and mineral bouquet are quite
impressive. Therefore it was little surprise that Wine Spectator
recently made this wine their Wine of the Week (89 points). One
sniff and you¡¦ll realize that you¡¦re dealing with a very nice
New World Chardonnay. The wine is not overly ripe or fruity like
many inexpensive California or Australian Chardonnay wines. The
cooler weather of Washington State has bequeathed a surprising
subtly and complexity. The clear light golden color is lovely and
the nose offers unmistakable Chardonnay fruit and oak scents. In the
mouth, the wine has a very pleasant combination of ripe pear,
topical fruit and mineral flavors. Match this wine with all types of
seafood and white meat dishes. Serve at 10 C.
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Chateau
Puy Arnaud, 2001
This is a modern styled Bordeaux red wine from
the Côtes de Castillon - a lesser know region in Bordeaux that
recently has produced some very good wines. Several international
wine writers and publications have given this wine between 91-93
points and described the wine as a New World styled Bordeaux. I
believe this description somewhat misleading. The wine does offer
the ample fruit flavors and ripeness that one may associate with the
New World but it retains the structure and good fruit-tannin balance
of a fine Bordeaux red wine. The dark red color, blackberry and
spice nose and refined dark fruit flavors add up to quite a
pleasurable drinking experience. Match this wine with deeply
flavored meats like pigeon, duck and hearty red meat dishes. Serve
at 18 C.
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I encourage many friends to drink the same wine out of
two different glasses; one a simple wineglass as you will find in
most Taiwan restaurants and homes and the other a fine crystal
glass. Whether you drink a Chateau Haut Brion 1959 or the
abovementioned Chateau Clos Puy Arnaud, 2001, the experience will be different. In most cases,
even an uneducated palate can distinguish the difference. One must
also be careful about the ambient flavors that may be in the glass.
The water or detergent with which the glass was washed may impart an
unwanted flavor. Glasses store in cabinets with coffee, chocolate or
other fragrant foods or drinks will take on some of these flavors.
In Piedmont as well as some other leading Italian wine regions it is
becoming fashionable to wash glasses, literally rinse glasses, in
the same wine you are drinking. The sommelier will take a little of
the wine from the bottle and swirl it around your glasses before
serving. This is one method to help ensure a more pure flavor
experience.
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John
H. Isacs, ISACS Grapevine Principal Writer
Robert Chen, ISACS Grapevine Writer & Translator
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To
Purchase Call (02)2781-3098
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